We packed a lot into our eight days touring Provence and the delightful time passed quickly. We headed back to Avignon to return our rental car and board the TGV to Lyon.

Upon arrival in Lyon we quickly checked into the Hotel Globe & Cecile, but since our rooms weren’t quite ready we ventured out for a walk and lunch. The hotel’s central location makes it a good place to explore this picturesque city.

Place des Jacobins is about a block away. This charming square is surrounded by buildings with ornate facades.

A little further into the city, we came to Rue Merciere, an inviting street teeming with people enjoying an outdoor lunch. The French take their lunch break seriously, and the cafes were buzzing. We found a welcoming spot and made ourselves at home for our first of many memorable meals in this “gastronomic center of Europe.”

Fortified for the afternoon ahead, we wandered around taking in the sights of this beautiful city, enjoying the sunshine and balmy temperature as long as it lasted.

Lyon, the capital city in France’s Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes region sits at the junction of the Rhone and Saone Rivers. This location provides the Lyonnaise with proximity to rolling countryside for easy access to the freshest produce, meats, eggs, cheeses and other food products. There are lakes and rivers for fishing and mountains for hiking and skiing or just getting away from it all. Lyon has so much to see and do and enjoy!

Lyon’s diverse architecture reflects its long history with ruins from the Roman Amphitheater, ornate medieval and Renaissance buildings, and sleek, modern designs in the Confluence District.

A colorful piece of contemporary art  looking a bit like an overgrown technicolor plant stands in sharp contrast to the magnificent historic buildings surrounding it. The Flower Tree was the 2003 work of Korean artist Jeong-Hwa Choi for the 7th biennial contemporary art festival. It has become an iconic Lyon photo spot, so we couldn’t resist.

The second morning we braved a torrential rain storm to join our tour guide Paul for a walking tour sprinkled with entertaining stories, keen insights and fascinating history. If you’re ever in Lyon or want to learn more about the city  please look him up at http://www.freetourlyon.com

Vieux Lyon, the oldest neighborhood in Lyon, sits on the riverbanks of the Saone and reflects the spirit of early Lyon, where most workers were engaged in the silk industry. The area is remarkably well preserved with winding streets, hidden passageways (trabules…more on those later), traditional bouchon where the “Mothers of Lyon” honed their culinary skills (again, more on Lyon’s rich food history in a bit), trendy boutiques, museums, and LOTS of public art.

We learned that silk workers were some of the earliest organizers, often using what we call graffiti to voice their protests over poor working conditions and calls for reform. The tradition continues today with many political statements and other forms of advocacy and storytelling depicted in images and messages on ever-changing walls throughout the neighborhood. Animals are a favorite subject of Lyon’s public art.

Here are just a few more scenes from our tour of the old city.

The trabules are historic covered passageways unique to the old town. Notable elements of Lyon’s rich architectural legacy, trabules are secret passages connecting  courtyards and buildings. They typically consist of narrow corridors, spiral staircases, and inner courtyards. They were often used by the canuts (silk workers) to transport silk to and from tailors in the 19th century. They were also used during WW II by the Resistance to escape from the Nazis.

When the rain made it unbearable to be outdoors any longer (local news later reported that Lyon had a month’s worth of rain in a day!), we sought refuge at the Confluence Museum, an ultra modern structure housing fascinating natural historical and anthropological artifacts in interesting displays. The museum invites visitors to “look at and understand the world around us with curiosity and wonder.” It’s like a journey through time and across the world. One could easily spend several days here, and we all agreed that it was an excellent alternative to braving the elements.

The weather improved tremendously the following day, so we decided to explore one of Lyon’s iconic monuments, the Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourviere. Located on the Fourviere hill, it provides a spectacular panorama of the city.

The basilica was built from 1872-1884 to thank the Virgin Mary for preserving Lyon during the 1870 Franco-Prussian War. Inside, magnificent frescoes, Byzantine mosaics and stained glass windows depict historic moments in Lyon’s rich history. The crypt contains small chapels dedicated to different significant saints.

I’ve mentioned the food of Lyon indirectly throughout this post, and like all good meals, I’ve saved the sweetest for dessert. Lyon is known as the gastronomic capital of the world, a designation it wears proudly. Its origin rests with “The Lyon Mothers,” poor 19th century women who cooked simple, traditional food for their families using the cheaper cuts of meat and inferior produce available to them. But they cooked with skill in the style of the high quality food they prepared for wealthy aristocrats, and the results were incredibly delicious. One of the “meres” was Eugenie Brazier who, at age 19, became pregnant with the child of a married man. She was forced to leave home and cook to support herself and her child. Her culinary skills became widely known, and she opened a small bouchon, a type of traditional restaurant unique to Lyon. By the time she was 40, she owned two very popular bouchons. And in 1933, she earned the distinction of SIX Michelin stars, three for each of her restaurants! During this time, “The Mother of French Cuisine” was training a young apprentice to cook in her kitchen. Little did she know that this potato peeler would go on to become “The Father of Nouvelle Cuisine,” none other than Paul Bocuse himself.

Our visit to the Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse was a bit late to see local chefs carefully selecting ingredients for their next menus, but we got a feel for this incredible 56 vendor indoor market where the best of the best cheeses, breads, pastries, chocolates, fresh and dried meats and sausages, chickens from Bresse, and other gourmet delicacies are artfully displayed for the most discerning chefs. We also tasted some sweet treats and bought some chocolate to bring home.

We really tried (and failed!) not to eat too much  in Lyon, skipping the buffet breakfast offered at the hotel, but our carefully curated restaurant choices proved that there are few bad meals in Lyon. I’ll focus on our three dinners, because each reflects a different approach to culinary excellence.

First up is L’Etage.

The gps took us here, but the umbrellas belong to the ice cream store, and the address is for the tobacco store. You have to look carefully for the blue door, and then ascend two flights of old, broken winding stairs. An unlikely venue to be sure.

At the second floor, we took a long, dark hallway and were convinced that we couldn’t possibly be in the right place. Just then a door opened revealing a pleasant room with six tables and we were greeted warmly by a boy-faced young man in an apron and flowered shoes.

He turned out to be the 32 year-old Host-Chef-Server-Owner-Storyteller extrordinaire Guillaume Mallet. He and one kitchen helper do it all. He showed us to the best table in the house overlooking the Place des Terreaux, and we settled in for a truly memorable meal.

The young dad became only the 5th owner of restaurant 11 years ago. The space was a tailor shop before it was transformed into a restaurant almost 100 years ago. He develops three distinct menus daily based on his bicycle trip to the market, and everyone at the table must agree on the same choice. Fortunately we all wanted to try the tasting menu of 4 plats and 2 desserts. We were delighted with our choices.

Each course was impeccably plated and graciously served. Every table was filled and all of the guests looked happy.

The next night we opted for a traditional bouchon, Cafe Comptoir Abel.

The hearty bouchon fare was surprisingly delicious. The affable service and French country decor combined to make us feel like we were dining in the home of old friends. Everything was delicious. And they even put a candle on Doug’s ice cream with warm chocolate sauce in celebration of his birthday.

We enjoyed our final Lyon dinner at the chic Cafe Terroir just around the corner from our hotel.

Cafe Terroir describes itself as a “unique French tradition gastronomic table,” and we quite agree. Young Chef Jean-Francois Tetedoi, whose father has a Michelin star, sources the finest local ingredients to offer fresh, organic fare. Our kind, capable server brought a palate cleanser of clear broth and an amuse bouche of chicken heart mousse. The escargot with a garlicky pesto was extraordinary. A specialty of the house is a whole rotisserie Bresse chicken for two artfully carved tableside and served with a velvety yellow wine sauce with morel mushrooms.

When it came time for dessert, the lights went out and the Theme from Star Wars came on through the speakers as a Happy Birthday for Darlene, who will celebrate a marker birthday with her Copenhagen family next week. She thought the power went out, but the whole room clapped for her!

A short walk back to our hotel and we bid a fond farewell to our dear friends and intrepid traveling companions. After months of planning and itinerary-building, we had come to the end of our time together. We stayed healthy and happy and had a wonderful time together.

And life will go on. The Ziegenhagens will continue their journey to visit their Copenhagen family and the Zemans will make their way home to celebrate two family milestones: our son’s upcoming wedding and the birth of our other son’s second son. We’re blessed with relatively good health and doubly blessed with like minded friends.

Until next time …

The first stop on our journey from Vaison-la-Romaine to Bonnieux was Avignon. After entering the walled city, we thought we were lucky to find a parking space alongside three other cars. Unfortunately, when we returned there was a citation on our windshield…as well as those of the other cars. We opted for an overview of Avignon on the Tourist Train, a 45 minute narrated tour of the highlights of this bustling city on the Rhone. As Rick Steves puts it “Avignon is an intriguing blend of medieval history, youthful energy, and urban sophistication.

Continuing on, we made a brief lunch stop in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, the Venice of France. 

We arrived in Bonnieux and received a warm welcome from our hosts Celine and Sophie at the charming Hotel le Clos du Buis. This 10 room gem has taken great care to provide weary travelers with every amenity including lovingly decorated rooms with comfortable furnishings, fine French personal products, self-serve laundry, a sumptuous breakfast, a shared guest kitchen, living room, free parking, and an inviting pool. The views from the breakfast room are breathtaking.

Bonnieux itself is a quiet town that provides a convenient place for exploring the area. A walk to the top  reveals an old family cemetery, a street of old private mansions, and some great views of the village below. We learned from our friend Paul that French families actually rent gravesites for a period of 30 years, after which they can either renew or abandon the site. If they abandon, the remains are moved to an unmarked, common site and the plot is rented to a new family. The 16th century church was under renovation and inaccessible to the public. But the small Bonnieux Friday morning market provided a sharp contrast to the large, bustling markets we’d seen so far. A nice variety of local produce, cheeses, sausages, clothing, and pottery is on offer from friendly vendors who seem very proud of their work. We got a lesson on how to tell the difference between goods that are made in France and imports and our “teacher” made a good sale.

After a good night’s sleep and full breakfast we were delighted to find that the wicked winds of the Mistral had subsided for a couple of days of exploring some of the Luberon hill towns. The sun just drenched the exquisite countryside the first full day.

First up was Gordes. Interestingly, as recently as the 1960s Gordes was a ghost town of derelict buildings and a failed economy. Wealthy French, Swiss, British and a few Americans in the film industry discovered this gem-in-the-rough and heavily invested in the complete renovation of the entire town in order to be able to re-create perfect Provencal villages on film. They certainly achieved their goal of creating a pretty place with everything “just so,” and it provided a beautiful setting for many of the village scenes in the 2006 Ridley Scott film “A Good Year.”

The next stop on this glorious day was the Village of Bories, a world of dry-stone buildings dating back to the 17th century. The bories (stone huts) were built using stones found locally when land is cleared for agriculture. No mortar or binder is  used in this construction technique. The bories were used as shelters for shepherds, equipment storage and as temporary housing for shepherds and other seasonal workers. Abandoned in the mid-19th century, they were rediscovered in the 1960s and painstakingly restored over the next 8 years. Today they welcome visitors as a museum of rural housing and historic monument.

Roussillon, nestled stop Mount Rouge 1,000 feet above sea level is just a short distance away. To say that tourists have discovered the “Sedona of France” (so named for its astonishing red rock formations) is an understatement! A huge deposit of ochre paints everything a rich reddish color. It also provided the village with its economic base until after WW II. But once we fought our way through a very-congested parking lot and made sure we knew how to pay for the parking (an ongoing challenge unique to each city!) a brief walk into the trendy town made us realize why this Luberon hill town is so popular. It’s absolutely beautiful and quite charming.

Later the first full day Darlene and Michael’s dear friends Caren and Paul joined us from their home in Monaco. Michael and Paul attended graduate school together, but Paul reminisced about remembering Darlene as an undergrad. It had been five years since they had been together so they had a lovely reunion.

The six of us traveled to the nearby town of Goult, a quiet village with a number of restaurants that offer good food and comfortable service. We came for dinner and returned the following day for lunch.

A short drive across the valley took us to the small town of Lacoste. Dodging some raindrops through this picturesque town of arches and stone paths, we made our way up to the Lacoste Castle. Here the Marquis de Sade (1740-1814) lived for more than 30 years. Author of pornographic novels and known for hosting orgies and more, he was eventually imprisoned for three decades. The term “sadism”  is derived from his name. Many years later, fashion designer Pierre Cardin lived in the castle.

Lacoste is also home to a branch of the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) and aspiring artists show their work throughout the city.

Pont Julien is a three-arched Roman bridge that was built between 27 BC and 14 AD using the same no-mortar method as the Pont du Gard. It’s amazing that this bridge has survived Roman marches, floods, and decades of traffic. It is now a pedestrian bridge and ancient treasure.

Another short drive through the Luberon Hills took us to the charming Chateau de la Canorgue Winery. This lovely organic winery provided the setting for the home in “A Good Year.” Its welcoming tasting room offers a full range of wines from viognier to rose to full-bodied reds.

We enjoyed some memorable meals during our time in the Luberon. Here are just a few of the fresh, local offerings:

We covered a lot of territory during our stay in Bonnieux and enjoyed spending time with new and old friends. We gladly left the Mistral behind and had some sunshine and a few raindrops. Tomorrow morning we say au revour to Provence and return to Avignon to board the TGV for our train ride to Lyon.

Our next Provencal base for exploration is Vaison-la-Romaine, with stops in Nimes, Pont du Gard, and Uzes en route. The “local Headline reads “Cold Snap, so we layered as well as possible and set out for our next adventures.

The strong winds of the Mistral made walking around a bit of a challenge, but we managed to make a short swing through Nimes, the birthplace of denim. This comes from the fabric called serge de Nimes which regional farmers used to make work clothes and wagon covers. It made its way to San Francisco where Levi Strauss used it to make pants he called  jeans (from the word Genes, French for the Italian port of Genoa from which it was originally shipped.) We didn’t see much denim in Nimes, but we did stretch our legs long enough to view the Arena which dates back to AD 100 and is considered the most well-preserved arena of the Roman world. Today it’s used as a concert venue. The Maison Carree is also impressive and is considered the most complete building that survives from the Roman Empire.

The highlight of the day exploring this region was our visit to Pont du Gard, an aqueduct from Roman times and a spectacular work of art. In the first century AD, the Romans built a 30-mile aqueduct that ran to Nimes. While most of it ran on or below the ground, at Pont du Gard the aqueduct spans a canyon on a massive bridge over the Gardon River. It’s truly one of the most remarkable surviving Roman ruins anywhere.

Continuing our drive through beautiful Provence, we came to the traffic-free upscale town of Uzes. Quaint shops peek out from beneath the arcaded main square, and Denise was so cold she took advantage of a half-price sale on a vegan leather jacket which she wore for the rest of our drive to Vaison-la-Romaine.

Vaison-la-Romaine is famous for its rich Roman ruins, medieval town, and cathedral. The old town is split into two parts: Colline du Chateau (the upper city high atop a hill on one side of the Ouveze River), and Colline de la Villasse (the lower city.) We were lucky to book two nights at Maison d’Hotel de l’Eveche, a five room historic inn hosted by the gracious Aude and Jean-Loup Verdier in the upper city. Getting to our B&B was not for the faint of heart with hairpin turns and tiny stone-walled, cobblestone streets, but again our expert driver Doug and his capable navigators Darlene and Michael, with Michael actually leading part of the way on foot, got us there safely while yours truly closed her eyes and prayed!

Once there, I opened my eyes to see an inviting vine-covered arch leading to a stone building from the 15th century. During the course of our stay we learned that our kind hosts had bought the historic bishop’s residence (then in virtual ruins) in 1979. Host Jean-Loupe clearly used every bit of his architect training and building skills to renovate just enough to be convenient but with every ounce of charm intact.

The library room is literally floor to ceiling books with comfy chairs and a ladder to reach the very top shelf. A welcoming fire had been set in the comfortable living room, which we adopted for quiet evenings of pure relaxation. Aude had run a local art gallery and covered every inch of wall space with various interesting art posters and paintings. Memorabilia suggesting hobbies in music, photography and skiing were carefully placed so as to be interesting rather than cluttered. Although the winding stairs up to the quaint bedrooms could pose a challenge for some, our climbs  were rewarded with lovely sleeping accommodations with terra cotta floors and whitewashed beamed ceilings. It took some doing to figure out the heating panel, but once we did, the rooms provided a welcome respite from the persistent cold  winds of the Mistral. The place was so quiet during the night we were surprised to see other guests at breakfast. Here again, Aude’s culinary skills were in full display with homemade petite croissants and yogurt, cheeses, fruits, jams and piping hot coffee. The cold prevented us from enjoying the idyllic terrace, but breakfasting at the family dining table gave us a taste of life in the Vaucluse area of Provence.

Fortified for the day, we layered up and made our way down the hill and across the 2000 year old Roman bridge to the market where throngs of people from throughout the region descend on Tuesday mornings for one stop shopping. Literally everything one could imagine is on offer, from fresh ripe produce to prepared foods, baked goods, clothing, household items, luxurious fabrics, plants, and even mattresses and recliners. There’s also live music and dogs…lots of dogs! Denise made yet another weather-related purchase…gloves!

Walking up and down the hills of this Medieval town enabled us to partake in the local foods without guilt. We opted for Vietnamese our first night and French bistro food  the second.

At the recommendation of our host, we skipped individual wineries in favor of a drive to a quaint shop in Gigondas to taste some of the area’s best wines.

The Medieval ruins in Vaison-la-Romaine are well preserved and accessible. We definitely got our steps in exploring the ups and downs of this beautiful mountain town.

Two days in Vaison-la-Romaine flew by! Although we’re eager to see and do more, our departure from L’Eveche was bittersweet. A watercolor postcard left with our receipt will provide sweet memories of this idyllic spot.

Rick Steves aptly calls Arles “a down to earth slice of urban Provence, with evocative Roman ruins, an eclectic assortment of museums, made-for-ice-cream pedestrian zones, and squares that play hide-and-seek with visitors.” Three delightful days using this charming town as our home base confirmed our love for this medieval gem. From Arles, we ventured to St. Remy, Les Baux, and La Camargue.

After a bit of a snafu with our rental car, Michael’s charm and fluent French along with Doug’s professional driving skills paid off and we were on our way, navigating roundabouts under sunny skies from the TGV station in Avignon to the lovely Hotel Musee.

Tucked into an off-the-beaten-path (read:tiny streets built for bikes, not cars!) the hotel is a 17th century maze of comfortable rooms, restful parlors, winding stairways, and inviting courtyards. It’s adjacent to the Reattu Museum, houses in the former Grand Priory of the Knights of Malta, so it was easy to find once we realized that we could follow the signs to the museum if we got disoriented among the tangle of narrow, winding streets. The hotel provided a welcome respite from the unseasonably chilly temperatures and Mistral-force winds that accompanied parts our stay. Le Mistral is a vicious wind that blows 30-60 mph about 100 days of the year. Author Peter Mayle said “it can blow the ears off a donkey!” It is said that this unrelenting wind could have contributed to van Gogh’s mental illness. But we also relished in the magnificent light that drew the artist to Arles.

We timed our visit to Arles around market day, and it did not disappoint. People flock to the ring road that surrounds the city to purchase anything and everything. We were tempted by bountiful displays of fresh produce, meats, cheeses, breads, pastries, herbs and spices, oils, and prepared foods. There are racks upon racks of clothes (Denise snagged an Italian mohair sweater to fend off the chill), shoes, linens, toys, and just about anything one could imagine, want or need.

Walking is the only way to see the many interesting points of interest in Arles, and since it’s relatively flat, it wasn’t too difficult to navigate. Arles fully embraces its Roman roots, with ancient ruins literally standing alongside shops and cafes.

Built in 90 AD, the Classical Theater once held more than 20,000 spectators for chariot races and other bloody hand-to-hand battles. Today it is home to La Feria de Pasque, live bullfights over Easter weekend as well as summer concerts and fairs. A UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Place de la Republique is a kind of central square housing the former Hotel de Ville (City Hall) and friends and neighbors gather alongside tourists. St. Trophime Church, named after a third-century bishop of Arles, is on the square and is a fine representation of Roman and Gothic architecture.

The Arlaten Folk Museum, set in a 15th-century manor home, was a delightful surprise. It is considered the leading museum in Provence for the preservation of traditional folklore. With Roman ruins literally exposed within, the recently-renovated high-tech museum explains the importance of the Rhone River and the Camargue to the area’s history, economy and culture. It traces traditional dress, tools, musical instruments and more. It ends with a look at challenges facing Provence today. It’s definitely worth the price of admission.

In 1888, shortly after his famous ear-cutting incident, van Gogh was admitted to Hotel Dieux, a local hospital. Today this space has been transformed into Espace van Gogh Cultural Center. Surrounding the flowering courtyard the artist loved to paint during his recovery, Espace includes the courtyard, exhibit space, classrooms and a library.

We were lucky enough to get tickets to the second last day of L’Atelier du Sud Residence d’Artiste, a private residence and companion exhibit of 24 French and US artists who came together between 2020-2023 to live and work together in a creative residential community. Fulfilling van Gogh’s thwarted dream of an artist collective residence for his Yellow House (destroyed in WWII) these artists explored van Gogh’s notions of home as a place for artistic experimentation, and collaboration as a form of artistic practice. The exhibit includes various contemporary mediums including sculpture, mosaics, video and painting.

Named for the Roman forum that once stood here, Forum Square was the political and religious center of Roman Arles. Still lively, the bistros on this square offer casual food and drink, and a great opportunity for people -watching.

We ventured out of Arles to the sophisticated city of San Remy and the St. Paul Monastery and Hospital, a still-functioning psychiatric hospital. Van Gogh checked himself into the facility where he stayed from 1889-1890 and completed 143 paintings and more than 100 drawings. The tranquil setting reflects Vincent’s temporarily-peaceful world: a small chapel, private cloisters still in use, a re-creation of his room, and a small walled lavender field with several copies of his paintings.

Also in San Remy are the Glanum Ruins, the 2,000 year old foundation of a Roman market town at the crossroads between Italy and Spain.

Moving on to the nearby town of Les Baux, we climbed some pretty steep hills to be rewarded by spectacular views of some important ruins from the Middle Ages.

We continued on our scenic drive to La Camargue, a regional nature Park and protected habitat for birds, bulls, white horses, wild boar and the pink flamingos that had recently migrated south for the season.

At the western end of the Camargue lies the whitewashed seafront town if Stes-maries-de-la-mer where we made a brief stop for some ice cream. The town is famous as a mecca for the Roma (Gypsies) who gather here for two weeks annually to venerate their patroness Saint Sarah. We missed the celebration, but thoroughly enjoyed the laid-back feel of the town.

And speaking of ice cream, we enjoyed some wonderful meals during our stay in Arles. Breakfast near the marketplace fortified us for the day ahead. Michael’s special friend, our favorite server Aziza suggested some delicious rotisserie options at Bistrot Aarlesien, and we enjoyed our food, but NOT the stuffy unhelpful service at Greeniotage, the “little sister” to the Michelin-Starred Rabanel.

We made great use of our three days in Arles and the surrounding area and adjusted well to the time change and sunny, chilly, windy weather. It provided a perfect place to launch our stay in Provence.

The Timeless Travelers are on the road again, quite literally, this time with our dear friends Darlene and Michael Ziegenhagen. We met up in Paris, where Darlene and Michael had been visiting longtime friends from their years of living abroad.

The very charming Left Bank Hotel gave us a warm welcome for our 24 hour stay in Paris. With a quick stop to drop our bags (and Doug who needed a nap after an overnight flight in front of a screaming infant), we were faced with an overwhelming array of options for spending our limited time.

With just a brief stay in Paris, we decided to visit the Picasso Museum. It did not disappoint.

The next stop was for a brief respite to enjoy the stunning gardens of the Place des Vosges.

Strolling around Le Marais District, we enjoyed incredible falafel from a street vendor and reveled in the lively atmosphere with quaint shops, cafes, and beautiful buildings.

We returned to our hotel and re-joined Doug for a delicious dinner at Le Procope, the oldest cafe in Paris. Seated in our own tiny dining room, we enjoyed three courses of delightful food and gracious, relaxed service.

Our after-dinner walk took us across the Seine to the incredibly upscale  Samaritaine. With five floors of carefully-curated designer goods, this landmark store offers a truly unique opportunity for “window-shopping.”

As the setting sun reflected on the Seine, we reflected on our good fortune of safe travel with wonderful friends. We’re truly blessed.

The next morning we were up early for the next leg of our journey, the TGV from Paris to Avignon and points south where more adventures await.

This was our first fall visit to Paris, and we definitely learned the value of having the right clothes…layers, hoods, hats, fleece, and goretex kept us moving! It rained part of every.single.day, but we were prepared and ready to explore. We packed a lot into four days, but didn’t scratch the surface of everything this beautiful city has to offer. Getting around Paris is relatively straightforward with a good gps, great walking shoes, the metro and Uber. Our pedometers clocked well into the five figures every day as we made our way from place to place.

We’ll just cover a few of the highlights, including a museum, several  historic sites, entertainment, a park, and of course, the flavors of Paris ❣️

With limited time, we had to choose just one museum to visit. Our daughter Gina studied in France for a year during college and her favorite to this day is the Musee d’Orsay. We took her suggestion and spent a delightful and enriching afternoon in this magnificent place.

Inaugurated in 1900 for the World’s Fair, Orsay train station ran services to Paris from southwest France. A luxury hotel, restaurant and a grand reception room were housed within the station. As train travel became more modern, the outdated building was gradually abandoned. In 1977, the French government decided to protect the building from the wrecking ball and turned it into a museum. The Musee d’Orsay opened in 1986 and includes paintings, sculptures, decorative arts, photography and drawings from 1848 to 1914. During our visit, we were lucky to view a special  installation from the last two months of Vincent van Gogh’s life.

Many of Paris’ historic sites are under renovation and repair in anticipation of the 2024 Olympics, and of course the Cathedral of Notre Dame is being carefully re-built following its devastating fire in 2019. We were told that she’s doing “quite well” and is expected to re-open in 2025.

And we spent a very special (albeit rainy!) morning roaming around Montmartre. This charming bohemian enclave, which artists, writers and poets have called home for decades, is topped by the Sacre-Coeur, the second highest point in Paris. The morning fog dampened our view, but not our spirits.

We had exactly one sunny afternoon, a perfect excuse for a walk through beautiful Luxembourg Gardens. Adjacent to the imposing Senat building, this seems to be a popular spot for people to gather for an outdoor lunch, jog, yoga, tai chi and other outdoor activities. It was teeming with people of all ages enjoying a break from the rain.

One can find just about any kind of night life in Paris, from classical opera to theatre to lively clubs, but we opted to head to the Latin Quarter to experience the Parisian cabaret. The Paradis Latin was rebuilt by Gustave Eiffel in 1889 following a devastating fire, and the spirit of cabaret lives on there to this day. Born in the exuberance of the 19th century, cabaret includes elaborate costuming, acrobatics, comedy, sensuality and of course, the French cancan! Photos are prohibited during the performance, but the cast generously posed before dinner.

And nothing anywhere compares with the foods of Paris! Denise’s WW point counter was literally spinning…with no regrets! We sampled sweet and savory delicacies at quaint bistros, locally cured meats and cheeses at specialty shops, delicious chocolates at a family-owned chocolate boutique and the most decadent hot chocolate and pastries at the well-known Angelina’s. Our most memorable dinner was at Procop, one of Paris’ oldest cafes (another Gina recommendation) where we enjoyed truffle pate, escargot, sole meunier and their famous rich ice cream. We savored every morsel and never ran out of new things to taste.

Paris in the fall is a bit less crowded, more chilly and wet, and still as beautiful and exciting as always.

And as our time in Paris drew to a close, we said au revoir Paris…until we meet again!

Today we bid a very fond farewell to the Viking Hild, our home away from home from Switzerland through Germany. The outstanding crew on the Hild made for a most memorable voyage. But the fun isn’t over yet! The road from Trier to Paris includes two important stops: the Luxembourg American Cemetery and Memorial and the magnificent Reims Cathedral.

The Luxembourg American Cemetery and Memorial was built on a site liberated by the U.S. 5th Armored Division on September 10, 1944. It is one of the 26 American cemeteries operated and maintained by the American Battle Monuments Association. The association fulfills the vision of General John J. Pershing who promised that “time will not dim the glory of their deeds.”

Each of the tall wrought iron sections of the gate bears gilded laurel wreaths, the ancient award for valor. Gilded eagles surmount the stone pillars.

Despite the rain, this was a very moving visit.

Continuing west, we crossed the border into France and arrived in Reims for a visit to the Cathedral of Notre Dame. The ornate Gothic architecture tells stories of angels, saints and royalty.

The stained glass windows date from the 13th to the 20th centuries.

After a long day of sightseeing and bus riding, we caught our first glimpse of the Seine, and I remembered why I ❤️Paris!

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Trier is Germany’s oldest city, having been founded in 16 BC as a Roman encampment by Empower Caesar Augustus. Although it was a cold, rainy day, our knowledge guide to the city’s antiquities made for a very interesting visit. Trier is a principal city of the Moselle Valley and a once mighty outpost of the Holy Roman Empire. Remains of Rome’s power and influence are scattered everywhere, seamlessly mixing into the vibrant, modern city.

Trier has three major historic churches, one Protestant and two Catholic. The Protestant church, destroyed by Louis XIV and restored on the original Roman foundation which had brick walls 10′ deep, is massive. Nazis occupied the church during WW II, but today it is a vibrant Lutheran parish.

Liebfrauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) is one of the earliest Gothic churches in Germany.

The magnificent Cathedral of Trier was built under the direction of Helena (mother of Emperor Constantine.)

One of Germany’s most famous sons, Karl Marx, was born in Trier in 1818.

The historic heart of Trier is the colorful Hauptmarkt. The square is anchored by an ornate fountain dating back to 1595. St. Peter, the city’s patron saint, stands on the fountain’s top pedestal. The tower of St. Gangolf’s Church rises above the colorful buildings around the square. The historic Market Cross, one of Europe’s oldest market crosses, has been standing as a blessing to the square since 958 AD.

This morning we took an early morning hike towards the vineyards that overlook the tiny town of Bernkastel. I’ve mentioned the steep terrace farming the local farmers use to grow grapes for riesling wine, but wanted to see just how steep. Whew 😅

It was Sunday morning and it seemed as though the idyllic town was just waking up. Bernkastel-Kues comprises two villages that merged in 1905: Bernkastel on the right bank and Kues on the left. Linked by a bridge, they straddle the Moselle River and enjoy a great reputation for health spas and fine wines. We explored cobblestone streets lined with half-timbered houses.

Although everything was closed, we made our way to the medieval marketplace and Rathaus (Town Hall.)

Crossing the river into Kues, we learned something about the city’s most well-known residents, medieval cardinal and philosopher Nicolaus Cusanus. We visited St. Nicolaus Hospital, named after him, and were surprised to learn that this “charitable home” has been operating since 1458. Its chapel is beautiful!

As we continued our walk toward the vineyards, we passed several wine caves along the way. Up and up we went, and our reward was an incredible view of the quaint town and sweeping views of the steep vineyards surrounding us.

It was much easier going down!

Sailing along the picturesque Mosselle River Valley on our way to the stunning Medieval town of Cochem, we suddenly realized that we were sailing backwards! Upon learning that an upcoming lock was shut down, our more than capable captain deftly put the ship in reverse (the river was too narrow at that point to turn around) and maneuvered back to a safe place to dock. The good news is that we got to see some of these stunning valley views twice. Our cruise director Simon shifted into high gear and immediately re-arranged our itinerary, called in the bus drivers who were having a day off, and got us to Cochem where local guides were waiting to share the magic of their town with us.

Cochem is one of the Moselle River’s most picturesque villages. We arrived just in time for the celebration of the “green wine” (a very young wine) which we enjoyed at Schlagkamp, a family-owned winery since 1602.

A very walkable town, Cochem prohibits cars on city streets between the hours of 10am-6pm. Street vendors offering delights of all kinds bring families and tourists out to enjoy the festivities.

Through the Medieval city gates into the Old Quarter, we walked past numerous half-timbered homes and businesses as well as the 15th-century St. Martin’s Church. Although the market square was relatively quiet during our visit, we were told that it will be a beehive of activity on market days, especially during the upcoming Christmas Markets.

Continuing our climb to the upper town, our efforts were rewarded with our first glimpse of Reichsburg Castle. Perched on a bluff overlooking the town, this magnificent building dates back to the 11th century. In 1689, the troops of Louis XIV razed it to the ground and lay in ruins until it was restored by a private owner. Now owned by the citizens of Cochem, it stands as a monument keeping careful watch over this beautiful place.

Although the resident population of Cochem is only around 5500 people, during the height of the tourist season that can grow to over a million. It is clear to us that the combination of history, beauty, hospitality, walkability, safety, fine wines, challenging hiking trails, and interesting points of interest make Cochem a very attractive place to visit.