Above and Below Ground in Napoli!

Naples Seafront

According to our guide Vincenzo, this has been the warmest August in 40 years! Our tour took us above and below this iconic Italian seaport, which has long been a major center of Italian culture for centuries and is best known for its pizza.  In 1889, King Umberto I and Queen Margherita of Savoy visited Naples. A baker named Esposito made them a pizza named in the queen’s honor. The pizza mirrored the Italian flag: red tomatoes, white mozzarella, and green basil. This margherita pizza has become synonymous with Napoli.

The National Museum of San Martino (formerly a convent) stands high above the city and provides a timeless landmark.

National Museum of San Martino

Naples has the dubious distinction of being the most bombed Italian city in World War II. Nonetheless, there are some beautiful buildings in Naples, such as those that mark a sweeping public square. The San Francesco di Paola Church, reminiscent of the Pantheon in Rome, and the Royal Palace with statues of all the kings of Naples keeping watch over the square.

San Francesco di Paola Church
Royal Palace

Naples also boasts two historic castles. The Medieval Castel Nuovo is one of the primary architectural landmarks of Naples.

Castel Nuovo

The Castel dell’Ovo (Egg Castle) is a seafront castle located on the Peninsula of Megarde. Legend has it that the poet Virgil placed a magical egg in the castle’s foundation, which, if broken, would have meant destruction of the castle and disaster for the city. It is said to remain there to this day, along with Virgil’s remains.

Castel dell’ Ovo

Naples also has many beautiful fountains, such as those in front of City Hall at Palazzo San Giacomo and the Fontana El Carciofo (Fountain of the Artichoke.)

Palazzo San Giacomo
Fontana del Carciofo

Volcanoes dot the skyline around Naples, and although the day was hazy, they can be seen as reminders of both the destruction and benefit they produce. The city of Pompeii was destroyed by Mt. Vesuvius in 79 A.D., but volcanoes also produce lava rock which has served as an important building material in and around Naples for centuries.

Volcanic Island of Ischia
Mt. Vesuvius

We later escaped the afternoon heat by touring the lesser-known Bourbon Tunnels deep below the city. Originally built by the Greeks in the fourth century B.C., they were later used by the Romans as aqueducts. As our tour reflected, they also served as life-saving air raid shelters during World War II.

They have discovered so much of what it must have been like during the war, including a birthing area and toilets that offered little privacy.

Birthing Room

Over the years, the abandoned tunnels became a dumping ground for old cars, motorcycles, Vespas, and other artifacts. Recent efforts to preserve the tunnels have resulted in a massive clean-up, during which many of these remnants of the past have been placed on display.

Antique baby carriage
Fireman’s ladder
One of many motorcycles

And no visit to Naples would be complete without a taste of Margherita pizza!

Doug’s smile says it all!

As we sailed away from Naples, we passed the lighthouse with fond memories of a beautiful day in the region where my father was born.

Naples Lighthouse

When in Rome, Do as the Romans Do!

Saint Peter’s Square

Our day in Rome started with a panoramic tour (a.k.a. a bus ride around the city to glance at many of the beautiful, historic sites.) Since tour buses aren’t allowed in many places, this approach left us a bit frustrated to say the least, because we missed many of Rome’s highlights. But here are a few pictures we managed to take from the bus.

Basilica of Saint Paul Fuori le Mura (Outside the Walls)
Arch of Constantine
Basilica do San Giovanni in Laterano
Temple of Venus and Rome
Remains of Circus Maximus
Castel Saint Angelo (Hadrian’s Tomb)

When our guide dropped us off at Saint Peter’s Square, our first inclination was to make a mad dash around Rome to be sure we didn’t miss anything. That would have been an exercise in futility, since it was already 97° and our time was very limited.

Then we remembered the cappuccino we enjoyed at Saint Eustachio Il Caffe many years ago. We decided that taking a coffee break at our favorite sidewalk cafe would be much more Roman than rushing around trying to check off boxes on a tour map. So armed with Google Maps, we set off to find Saint Eustachio’s, snapping photos of a few interesting sites along the way.

Piazza Navona
Piazza delle’Orologio

After a brisk 20 minute walk, our efforts were rewarded, and for the next hour we sat in the shaded plaza in front of the coffee shop sipping the most delicious drinks while nibbling on small pastries and chatting with a delightful young couple from Copenhagen.

As we made our way back to Civitavecchia, the port serving Rome, we were happy to have made the decision to “do as the Romans do” by taking a mid-day break to smell (and drink!) the coffee.

The Tuscan Sun!

Although we have loved our visits to Florence in the past, the record high heat and unrelenting sun led us to a decision to spend our two days in Tuscany in the smaller cities of Livorno, Lucca, and Pisa. We just couldn’t wrap our heads around walking around Florence at 104°!

Livorno Harbor

Livorno is the port city serving Tuscany. Its crumbling Renaissance-era fortification walls give way to a small town square. A few blocks away is the Venezia Nuova quarter, complete with a tiny network of canals. The night we were there there was an art fair going on, complete with artisan crafts, food, music, and balloons. We might have sampled a regional Chianti or Mobile di Montepulciano or two! It was fun to mingle among the local residents in a festive small town!

Venezia Nuova Canal
Church of San Ferdinando
Historic Town Hall
Festive Balcony
Art Fair

Making our way from Livorno to Lucca through the rolling, emerald-green countryside, we passed acres and acres of sunflowers, cypress trees, olive groves, and vineyards. We also crossed the Arno River.

Sunflowers for miles!
Arno River

Lucca is a charming historic city on the Serchio River. It is best known for its tree-lined 2.7 mile loop trail which has been built on top of its Medieval walls that still circle the historic old town. The Walls of Lucca are popular for jogging, cycling, and carriage rides. For us, they provided some welcome shade as we made our way around this well-preserved city.

During Roman times, Lucca served as an important meeting place for Julius Caesar and Crassus. It is also the birthplace of Giacomo Puccini. His home is now a museum and bookstore, and a statue of the great composer stands proudly in the Piazza Cittadella. Lucca is also home to several beautiful churches, most notably the Church of San Michele in Forno, around which a lively piazza serves as a meeting spot for locals and tourists needing a break.

Lucca’s traditional pastry, buccallato, is a round sweet bread sotted with raisins and anise. The Lucchese say “Whoever comes to Lucca and doesn’t eat buccallato is like never having been there.” We certainly didn’t want that to happen!

Giacomo Puccini at Piazza Cittadella
In search of the best buccallato
Mission accomplished!

No visit to Tuscany would be complete without a visit to Pisa, where the Square of Miracles welcomes thousands of visitors every day. Here, a trinity of masterpieces – Pisa Cathedral, the Baptistry, and the Campanile (a.k.a. Leaning Tower) – reflect some of the region’s finest art and architecture.

Gateway to Piazza Miracali
The Trinity
The Baptistry
Leaning Tower of Pisa
A bit of fun at the Tower!

Magnificent Monte Carlo

As we sailed into the glittering port of Monte Carlo, we couldn’t help feeling like we were entering a fairy-tale. Nothing about this elegant gem at the base of the Maritime Alps along the French Riviera seems the least bit real, but its stylish, sophisticated aura is both welcoming and intoxicating. It is immaculately clean, safe, chic, and yes, EXPENSIVE, but a day in this sparkling city within the Principality of Monaco was truly enjoyable.

Monaco has been ruled by the House of Grimaldi for 700 years. According to our guide, they’re well-liked and accessible, and can be seen out and about Monte Carlo. The current ruler is Prince Albert II. The Palais Princier is their private residence, parts of which can be visited from April through October. Hundreds of spectators view the changing of the guard, which occurs hourly.

Palais Princier

The Musee Oceanographique is home to more than 6,000 marine specimens. It has been widely recognized for its efforts to care for the world’s oceans for over a century. It’s an architectural masterpiece, seeming to emerge from the shore of the Mediterranean.

Musee Oceanographique
Ornate Front Door to Musee Oceanographique
Yellow Submarine

The Cathedrale de Monaco is the home church to the Grimaldi family. It has celebrated family weddings and funerals for decades, and is the final resting place for Princess Grace Kelly, Prince Rainier III, and other members of the royal family.

Cathedrale de Monaco
Main Sanctuary
Grimaldi Family Private Chapel
One of many side altars

Created in 1984 in memory of Princess Grace, the Roseraie Princess Grace has over 10,000 rose bushes over ten acres. The statue at the entrance was donated by the Broere family “in appreciation and gratitude for the hospitality extended by the Principality of Monaco and for its noble and extraordinary endeavours to save the oceans.”

Entrance to Roseraie Princess Grace
Statue at the entrance

The Casino de Monte Carlo has the distinction of being the most visited site in all of Monaco. With its distinctive Belle Epoque architecture, it stands as a symbol of the opulent world of gambling and entertainment.

The Monaco Grand Prix brings thousands of Formula One fans to Monaco from all around the world. The Circuit de Monaco is a 2,074 mile street circuit laid out on the city streets of Monte Carlo, La Condamine, and the harbour. Temporary facilities take 250 workers six weeks to construct before the race and three weeks to deconstruct afterwards. Parts of the inside track remain available to visitors, and various permanent structures provide racing-related photo-ops along the circuit streets.

Part of the Inside Track
Visitors can jump into this car for a selfie

As a playground for the rich and famous, Monte Carlo offers many recreational opportunities such as beautiful public and private beaches, stylish shops, Michelin-star restaurants, and even a seaside carousel.

During our stay in Monte Carlo, the super-yacht Kismet was docked in the harbour. Valued at over $200 million, Kismet is owned by Pakistani-American billionaire Shahid Khan. With 8 staterooms and a crew of 28, Kismet can be rented for $1.2 million per week PLUS the cost of food, fuel, and dockage. This yacht has been in several films and was rented by Jay-Z and Beyonce during a vacation in Italy. Needless to say, we’ll be happily staying with Viking for a while!



Our panoramic tour of the highlights of Marseille took us along the beautiful Mediterranean coastline, up through the rocky limestone hills, and into the inviting old port.

Although Marseille is France’s oldest city, rich in historic treasures, it has an exciting vibe as they prepare for the 2024 Paris Olympics. Marseille will be hosting the Olympic sailing competitions, so the harbor areas are bustling as impressive event and viewing facilities emerge. Cranes dot the coastline as preparations are well underway.

Several remarkable monuments dot the coast, including the welcoming Monument Aux Morts Orients and an imposing replica of Michelangelo’s David. Built in 1924, the Monument Aux Morts Orients is a national tribute to the soldiers and sailors who died in battle in the Orient and other distant lands.

Monument Aux Morts Des Orients

And I can’t imagine that David, built in 1903 in the 8th arrondissement on the Prado roundabout, hasn’t caused a traffic incident or two!

Marseille’s David

And beautiful beaches offer recreation and respite from the heat, which reached 90 throughout the day.

Plage des Catalans

Marseille is home to several beautiful churches, most visibly the neo-Byzantine Notre Dame de la Garde, the Cathedral de la Major, and the quaint Saint-Ferreol, known as the Church of the Old Port of Marseille. Notre Dame, perched high above the port city, stands guard over the city day and night.

Cathedral de la Major
Saint-Ferreol Church of the Old Port
Notre Dame de la Garde

The charming Vieux Port (Old Port) is a natural harbor that hosts hundreds of watercraft, from sleek elegant yachts to old style fishing boats. This picturesque quay provides a romantic setting for its many shops, sidewalk cafes, and unique attractions. Many of the shops offer the products of Provence, including whole stores dedicated to the ubiquitous lavender, olive oil, and other mouth-watering delicacies. The recent addition of motorized scooters and bicycles add to the excitement, as riders dart through the crowded sidewalks.

La Samaritaine Brasserie
Pop-up shops along the quay

We might have spent a little too much time in the charming La Cure Gourmande, an iconic shop offering sweets of all kinds, as the shopkeeper offered Doug an apron and a job!

And we couldn’t leave the Old Port without a nod to the Grand Carousel de la Canebiere.

Grand Carousel de la Canebiere

Sete, France

Since Louis XIV chose Sete as the port where the Canal du Midi would join the Mediterranean in 1666, Sete was destined to be a maritime town in the south of France. Known as the “Venice of France” because of its many canals, Sete is a charming town offering a unique introduction to the Occitanie  Region. The residents fiercely cling to their regional identity, and proudly continue to speak their native language as demonstrated by our guide. Occitan to his core, Tony sprinkled his tour narrative with political perspectives and regional songs, which he sang and played on his fife as we made our way through the city.

Tony drew some side-eyes from locals as he led us through Sete with his flute, playing American tunes such as Yankee Doodle when it was time for us to gather!

The Port of Sete was originally inaugurated with a water jousting festival, a Medieval tradition that continues to this day. Every August, thousands of spectators flock to Sete for a week-long contest between two teams: blue (bachelors) and red (married men), although women are beginning to infiltrate the sport. Standing on special boats, the jousters try to knock each other into the river.

As we walked along Fisherman’s Village, we encountered many local fishermen as they prepared to go out for the catch of the day.

Locals gather at Les Halles, the lively local marketplace, where a variety of fresh products of the land and sea are available to enjoy there or take home.

The octopus is celebrated throughout Sete, with a statue in the middle of the town square. It is also baked into a local delicacy called tielle, a pie filled with octopus and tomatoes. It is considered a delicacy and is available all over town.

Our walking tour with Tony was fun, interesting, and HOT! After bidding a fond farewell, we boarded a bus for our ride to Pays de Thai wine region.

Tony is a proud ambassador for Sete
Next stop oysters!

A short ride through the countryside took us to Tarbouriech, the realization of Florent Tabourich’s dream of developing a method of cultivating the most delicious oysters. This unique process creates artificial tides using smart solar panels and wind turbines. The oysters are grown on large frames in the lagoon and are lifted repeatedly from the water throughout their growing cycle, a process resulting in a sweeter taste and fleshy texture.

The proof of the method is oysters with a sweet, salty taste that’s perfectly paired with Picpoul de Pinet, a crisp white wine.

Oysters+wine=a happy Denise

We ended our day in Sete with a return to the lovely canals and a breathtaking sunset.


Welcome back to Timeless Travelers…we’re delighted that you’ve decided to join us once again. On this trip, we’re trying to visit many of the ports we missed on our abbreviated 2020 World Cruise.  Starting with two delightful days in Barcelona, we’ll be cruising the Mediterranean to Istanbul, where we’ll spend several days before flying to Cairo. Once there, we’ll be sailing the Nile before heading home. One thing that’s different this time is that since our world cruise, we’ve added a new member to our family. Mocha Latte is a 2 year old mini Bernedoodle who has captured our hearts. She’s spending this time with her pals at Our Furry Friends, and we’re grateful to Ms. Babette who will make sure she has a great vacation too.

Mocha Latte

Although two days isn’t nearly enough time to experience everything Barcelona has to offer, we ignored our jet lag and packed as much as we could into our precious time there.

Barcelona is an exciting urban center that blends the historic with the contemporary in a way that delights the senses and literally offers something for everyone. With a tremendous focus on art and architecture, it’s truly a feast for the eyes! The influence of such greats as Gaudi, Picasso, and Dali is found everywhere.

The street lamps of Barcelona are exquisite, and range from very simple to absolutely extraordinary.

Barcelona’s markets are bustling centers for local commerce. One of the largest is Mercado de la Boqueria. Originally established in 1840, this market offers a huge selection of Spain’s renowned cured meats, cheeses, fish, fresh fruits and vegetables, nuts, and mouth-watering prepared foods.

Las Ramblas is one of the most iconic boulevards in Barcelona. Thousands of daily visitors enjoy the sights and sounds of the street, including the live statues that will “perform” for you for a small fee.

Murals, public art, and graffiti are found throughout Barcelona, and colorful street signs add interesting local flavor.

But the crown jewel of Barcelona is Gaudi’s masterwork, La Sagrada Familia. The largest unfinished Roman Catholic church in the world, it was supposed to be finished in 2026 in celebration of the centenary of Gaudi’s death. Covid, however, delayed the church’s completion, and some speculate that it will never be finished. A mix of architectural styles, the church is truly a masterpiece, deserving of a complete story of its own. Here is just a sample of this intricate, magnificent work of art.

There is so much more to Barcelona, its people, art, food, and culture, but with only two days to visit, we simply didn’t have time for everything. Here are just a few more photos that capture the spirit of this vibrant place. We would love to return some day.

An Overview of Our Antarctic Expedition

Due to inadequate wifi service, we weren’t able to share our expedition in real time, so here’s a quick re-cap of each day. We loved this unique trip, and hope you enjoy this summary.

FOURNIER BAY: Sailing into Fournier Bay, we had our first look at Antarctica, and what a breathtaking experience it was! During the night, we heard some noise coming from our window, so we investigated and found that if we opened the window ever so slightly, the noise was reduced. In our sleepiness, we forgot to lower the room darkening shades, so our “wake up call” was a VERY EARLY sunrise. The silver lining was that we awoke to the sight of some magnificent islands and glaciers!

Waking Up to Incredible Beauty

As the day went on, the bright sun gave everything a bluish cast, and we couldn’t resist spending a good amount of time outside on the various decks. The temperature hovered around 30°, so we were quite comfortable.

Need a selfie stick!
Doug catching rays on the promenade deck.

I don’t have words to describe the beauty of this bay. We feel very fortunate to have had the opportunity of spending an idyllic day in the midst of such unspoiled, magical vistas; crystal blue waters; icy glaciers; and snow-covered islands. 

NEKO HARBOR: Neko Harbor is an inlet on the Antarctic Peninsula on Alvord Bay, situated on the west coast of Graham Land. There is a very active volcano in this area, and the remains of an old Argentine refuge built in 1949, as well as a very large Gentoo penguin rookery. It was discovered by Belgian explorer Adrien de Gerlache in the early 20th century, and named for a Norwegian whaling boat, the Neko, which operated in the area for about 15 years. This was our first Continental Landing, checking a 6th continent off our bucket list. After a wet landing on a pebbled beach, we trekked up a steep hill to see the penguins. They’re SO CUTE, but we were warned not to get too close!

Gentoo Penguins
Gentoo on the Beach

DANCO ISLAND: Danco is a 1 mile long island that lies in the southern part of the Errera Channel, off the west coast of Graham Island. Gentoo penguins nest right up to the summit of the island’s peak, which is also popular with a variety of Antarctic birds. After landing on a gravelly beach, we made the hike over ice and snow up approximately 410 feet for some breathtaking views of the surroundings.

Zodiac Landing on the Beach
Energetic Gentoo Penguins
Beautiful Icebergs with a Glimpse of the Octantis in the Distance
Gentoos Everywhere!

HIDDEN BAY: Hidden Bay sits between Cape Renard and Aguda Point on the northeast coast of the Kiev Peninsula. It was named Hidden Bay because from the entrance, the bay is hidden by the Screen Islands. Quietly riding around in the zodiacs for about two hours, we had some incredible views of the bay and the Octantis, and our knowledgeable guide pointed out some very interesting wildlife and beautiful scenery.

Viking Octantis from the Bay
Crabeater Seal
Beautiful Scenery

PARADISE BAY: Being an early riser definitely has its rewards in terms of magnificent sunrises all to myself! First light near Paradise Bay cast a peach-colored shadow over the mountains that provided a very special moment. A little while later, we enjoyed our second Continental Landing where we visited Base Brown, a small Argentine station on Antarctica’s mainland. We also saw even more penguins during our hike up the snow-covered slope.

First Light Paradise Bay
Paradise Bay Sunrise
Taking the Zodiac to the Bay
Gentoo Penguins
Base Brown

ENTERPRISE ISLAND: Enterprise Island was a popular site for whalers from 1915-1930, and several artifacts remain scattered along its coastline. During our two-hour zodiac exploration of this area, the waves picked up and it started snowing. We saw the remains of a shipwreck, to which several large sailboats were tied, one of which had sailed from Sydney, Australia! We also saw seals and cormorants, which at first glance look like penguins.

Our Intrepid Expedition Guide
Seals on Enterprise Island
Cormorant Colony

On our way to Half Moon Island, we sailed through a very large area of tabular icebergs, which are icebergs that have broken off from an ice shelf. Newly formed tabular icebergs have nearly vertical sides and flat tops. In the Antarctic, they can be tens of kilometers wide, and as much as 1,000 ft thick, but only about 10% is exposed above the sea surface.

We were also greeted by some Adelie Penguins that were trying to get out of our way.

Adelie Penguins

HALF MOON ISLAND: Situated on the western shore of Livingston Island, Half Moon Island is part of the South Shetland Islands. Its name comes from the characteristic crescent shape. Here we met up with some fur seals as well as our first colony of Chinstrap Penguins, appropriately named for the black line at the bottom of their chins.

Chinstrap Penguin
Fur Seal
More Chinstrap Penguins
And One More Chinstrap

After crossing the no-less-shaking Drake Passage once again, we ended our journey where we began, in Ushuaia, Argentina, the southern-most city in the world! We spent a leisurely day there, visiting various points of interest and enjoying some warm Argentine hospitality.

Welcome to Ushuaia!
Southern-most Post Office
Southern Terminus of the Pan-American Trail

This brief re-cap doesn’t do justice to this adventure of a lifetime, but we wanted to share the highlights with you. Missing are details about our beautiful ship, the Viking Octantis, as well as a description of the many research partnerships Viking has made as part of their commitment to science. We learned so much from our wonderful guides from all over the world, and we were humbled by their knowledge and commitment to leaving this world a bit better than we found it.

Passing Through The Drake from Lake to Shake…Did We Make A Mistake?

The Drake Passage is the body of water between South America’s Cape Horn, Chile, and the South Shetland Islands. This convergence constricts the Antarctica Circumpolar Current, and can result in the “Drake Shake” or the “Drake Lake.” We had fingers crossed for the latter. Passing through the Drake has been described as “unpredictable, chaotic, thrilling, exhilarating, notorious, and violent,” and as the evening unfolded, we began to wonder if it was a mistake. Early in the morning, my insomnia proved to be a blessing, as I awoke before a very early sunrise and was rewarded with a spectacular array of magnificent colors.

Sunrise Approaching the Drake Passage

As we entered the Drake, our captain announced that we were starting out in “friendly” weather, and we wondered why all the fuss. After all, we live in the snow belt of Northeast Ohio, so we thought we were tough. The Drake connects the southwest part of the Atlantic Ocean with the southern part of the Pacific Ocean, and extends into the Southern Ocean. These three oceans converge where there is little land to block the currents and wind, and the result is frequently the weather described above. We felt some wind and a bit of choppy seas, but Lars, the ornithologist onboard assured us that we would be thankful for the wind, because when there’s no wind, there’s no albatross. As the wind picked up around dinnertime, we were rewarded with the sighting of several Wandering Albatross, those that, with the Royal Albatross, have the largest wingspan.

Adult Wandering Albatross
Youth Wandering Albatross

As we enjoyed our dinner, the wind and waves picked up, and by the time we got back to our cabin, we were rockin’ and rollin’.

Drake Passage

Throughout the night, we heard noise from something repeatedly banging against the ship, to creaks and groans as the Octantis navigated the stormy seas. Thankfully this ship was built for this kind of weather, but the stabilizers were definitely put to the test.

By morning, the winds began to dissipate, and we caught our first glimpses of some beautiful islands. We spotted a whale, and if you use your imagination and look closely, you can just about see his spray.

First Whale Sighting
First Island Sighting

The islands on either side of the ship are breathtaking, and led us to the conclusion that no, crossing the Drake was NOT a mistake. It’s the shortest route to our ultimate destination, Antarctica! The spectacular islands are well worth the tumultuous night.

Selfie with Beautiful Islands in Background

Back to Travel

When last we met in March, 2020 we were happy to be home from our abbreviated world cruise, safe and healthy. Much has happened since, so here’s a brief update.

We endured a global pandemic; adopted Mocha Latte, a mini-bernedoodle who has captured our hearts and made us better humans; welcomed a third grandchild Otto whom Doug took a two month motorcycle trip to help babysit; celebrated our 30th wedding anniversary; lost a best friend Al to Covid; celebrated a marker birthday for a dear friend Karen in Napa; learned how to zoom for book club, celebrations, meetings, and general catch-ups; Denise enjoyed a Viking Greek Odyssey Cruise with her sister Phyllis; and generally learned that some things in life simply can’t be controlled. To quote our world cruise captain, “it is what it is,” and our cruise director “it’s gonna’ be great!”

Doug leaving for solo moto trip to California
Mocha Latte
Grandkids Lewi, Lona, and Otto

And that brings us to today, as we embark on our long-awaited Antarctic Expedition Cruise for the inaugural season of the incredible Viking Octantis.

No thanks to Covid, everything about this trip has changed, from start date to itinerary to airline reservations to testing requirements to the cancellation of our planned visit to Buenos Aires, but after two challenging days of travel, here we are in Ushuaia, Argentina ready for adventure.

Sailing away from Ushuaia, Argentina

As we head south through the Beagle Channel, Argentina is on our port side and Chile is starboard. We’re told it’s an unseasonably sunny, mild day, and we’re not complaining! Tonight we’ll begin our trip through the Drake Passage, hoping for the lake, but prepared for the shake.

Sun setting over the Beagle Channel